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Malinau Emas
From a region sought-after far and wide, I’m proud to offer you this beautiful distillation of the prized wild oud of Malinau, one of the crown jewels of the island of Borneo.
Malinau Emas opens up with a soft powderiness that reminds me of Kannauj’s Henna flower – Lawsonia inermis – distillations, with their wonderfully powdery and ‘yellow’ scent. It’s a rich and fuzzy yellow that conjures up images of endless rolling fields of sweet wild flowers, sunshine and hay, all contrasted by a subtle green-mango tanginess that balances it out beautifully.
Alongside this almost powdery texture, Malinau also has a light and airy muskiness about it à la Ceylon’s walla pattas. It’s a muskiness that feels jungly, yes, but almost smells of the ocean’s breeze at the same time; as if it’s the scent of the towering jungle canopy meeting with the ocean’s waves across a sandy strip of beach.
Besides these beautiful facets, I also detect vanillic, incensey, woody and earthy notes as the oil progresses, accompanied by a touch of green mintiness as its oudy heart starts to come through before eventually reaching a soft woody drydown.
Overall, a beautiful artisanal distillation from the wild jungles of Malinau, and for those that have not experienced this Bornean profile before, one that I would very highly recommend.
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Sylhet Orchard
Hailing from the rolling hills of Sylhet in Bangladesh, a picturesque region resplendent with lush tea gardens and tropical rainforests, this is most definitely NOT Hindi oud as you know it.
For most of us, traditional Hindi oud means barnyard and animalics. Love-it-or-hate-it affairs that are simply irreplaceable to their seasoned fans, and just downright offensive to everyone else.
Enter Sylhet Orchard, an artisanal distillation that showcases what high grade, wild Bengali oud can actually smell like. Gathered predominantly from the jungles of Sylhet Division and distilled using a special setup with zero fermentation, this oud firmly closes the door of the barn behind it and takes you on a summery sunshine-filled stroll amongst Sylhet’s fragrant orchards and hills.
Remarkably similar to excellent Thai or Cambodi oils, the scent opens up with a warm concoction of dark stewed fruits, honey, cinnamon and plums with a delicate tanginess reminiscent of green sultanas and hay perhaps, all streaming out together like the sun-ripened harvest of a luscious, fragrant orchard.
As the scent progresses, the green sultana-like tanginess comes to the forefront alongside a leathery facet, balancing out the profile beautifully against the sweet stewed fruits, before eventually reaching a light minty and sweet woody drydown.
Despite being a Bengal distillation, it’s amazing how Cambodian and Thai-esque this smells, but with a warm and radiantly yellow hue to it, and a beautifully rich and intense profile unlike many of today’s cultivated offerings from those regions.
Distilled in the first half of 2021, Sylhet Orchard has been ageing with me for several months now and already its profile has become a lot more beautiful and rounded, with the harsh edges disappearing and its profile becoming sweeter and richer, and it will continue to mature with time of course.Â
So, if you’re in search of an outstanding and unique distillation that will challenge your perception of what a Bengal oud can be... or can’t be, or you’re simply looking for a gorgeously pretty oud masquerading à la perfume to wear on the London Underground or NYC’s subway, I would highly recommend you try this.
Choron
Hailing from the ancient cradle of oud, this is a special 2018 co-distillation of incense-grade oud collected from various regions of Al Hind and beyond.
Artisanally distilled, with a short soak, low temperature cook, and several years of ageing now, it’s transformed into a beautifully balanced and rounded profile over time: A very refined Hindi oud full of character and depth, and yet void of all things animalics and barn.
As a high-grade Hindi, this can easily be called Kalakassi, but that term is actually a misnomer: an inaccurately-used label that’s often attached to top-drawer Hindis nowadays for marketing purposes*.
*(Kalakassi actually refers to one of the shapes of Hindi oud (wood). When a piece of oud is large and concave, i.e. resembles the shape of a banana leaf, it’s classified as Kalakassi, but that has no bearing on its grade or how resinated it is, simply its shape).
And hence, I decided to forgo this name for Choron instead, the Bengali distiller’s name for oud shavings. And not any shavings were used here; but the highly resinated shavings of wild, incense-grade oud. And the result is this gorgeous beauty…
Ultra-smooth, buttery almost, and complex, it opens up with a waft of soft incense, spices, and gentle tobacco around its beautifully dark Hindi oudy core.
As the scent develops, it gains slightly in sweetness, molasses now perhaps, contrasted by tobacco, woods, spices and leather, with a hint of hay and a clean barn somewhere in the distance, before eventually descending into a soft woody and spicy drydown.
Choron is most definitely not a loud Hindi oud roaring with animalics and barn, but it also isn’t a squeaky clean new-gen lacking in complexity and depth. Instead, it’s perhaps what many of its namesakes would love to be: A beautiful, delicate, tightrope walk between the two that shows you what Hindi oud, done right, can be.
Wild Oud Sample Set
This Wild Oud Oil Sample Set includes tiny micro-vial samples (approximately 2 drops) of each of the oud oils currently in store, as well as unscented toothpicks for application. The oils (and cost of this set) will change depending on their availability.
My aim is to make these sample sets very affordable so that you can test as many oils as possible before deciding to go for full bottles. The quantity in each vial is small but sufficient for at least two wears in my estimation.
The current wild oud oils included in this set are:
• Malinau Hijau
• Sumbawa
• Aceh Flora
• Choron
• Sylhet Orchard
• Golden Sylhet
You can read more about each of these oils on their individual listings.
Just to emphasise again, many of these oils are limited and can go out of stock quickly; therefore this list will be subject to change depending on availability of oils. I will of course update this list with any changes (including price) so that you know what you're getting.
Notes:
• The image is for illustration only, it does not show the number/colour/profile of oils you will receive.
Aceh Flora
A sensually green, zero-soak, wild oud oil from Aceh province in Indonesia, Oud Aceh Flora is a sweet, floral, and minty green beauty that reflects, in my mind, the flora of the jungle from where it hails, hence the name.
Swiping on the arm, it opens up with a strong blast of all shades of green: bright, grassy, mentholic, minty, jungly and vetivery notes, all accompanied by what reminds me of the powdery scent of rice flour, and perhaps a soft whisper of vanilla in the background.
Softening and sweetening as the scent progresses, this exquisitely bright, sweet and sour red cherry emerges, weaving in-between the soft vanilla and dark green jungles to produce what some may call a cola vibe that is simply beautiful.
Overall, however, this remains a dark green jungle-type oud which, alongside the gorgeous red cherry note mentioned earlier, also has floral, leathery, vetivery, mossy and even an almost dark, diesel-like facet to it which is hard to accurately describe, but makes it a fascinating oil in any collection.
Anonymous (verified owner) –
This is a ‘bright’ oud both in the color and the smell. The scent to me is powdery, grain like at the first minute, but soon it develops into a pleasant fruity scent like raw mango and citron, on top of a bright, minty and woody background. A lovey oud.
Jonathan –
I found this oud a little twangy, with a high-strung almost nervy quality I associate with newer distillations. I imagine it’ll settle nicely over time, and as is there’s a lovely woody incense that comes out in the drydown. Just needs some time to mature, I expect.
Nasra nasra –
Yusuf Abdullah (store manager) –