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Tuberose Absolute
One of the most stunning and prized florals in natural perfumery, this tuberose absolute from India is pure white floral creamy gorgeousness overflowing with layers of rich heady sweetness, powdery floral nuances and cool green earthy tonalities that are simply incredible to behold.
Aromatically speaking, I think you’ll be hard pressed to find a more beautiful or complex floral absolute, with such full-bodied lushness from opening through to mid notes that is creamy, waxy, floral, sweet, green, earthy, and honeyed all at the same time.
As it transforms along its aromatic journey, its sweet and slightly bitter green melon-like notes slowly disappear to reveal an unbelievably heady, floral, soft and powdery dry down that is ambery and warm; one of the best dry downs I’ve ever experienced in any material and one that makes for a stunning perfume all unto itself.
As with any perfumery material, and especially with such a dense and complex absolute, it’s important to test this on a scent strip to really allow it to open up and develop over time so that all its delicate nuances and layers can be appreciated.
For me, this is a very tenacious mid and base note material that lasts well over two weeks on the scent strip, with that unbelievable dry down really starting to shine around the one week mark.
To summarise, for the natural perfumer and for the collector of rare and prized naturals, I simply cannot recommend this tuberose absolute enough. It’s a stunning material that I can see working well both as the star of the show as well as in a supporting and modifying role in all manner of florals, orientals, chypres and most other classes of perfume.
For a ready-to-wear attar of this amazing floral, please see our beautiful Tuberose Sandalwood Attar, which I also highly recommend (though the dry down is much more sandalwood than tuberose and much of that rich lushness is missing, but it makes for a beautiful ‘taster’ for this nonetheless).
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Santal Ceylon Silk
Just like Ceylon Red, this is a wild Sri Lankan santal that has aged beautifully since it was distilled in 2021. Very much unlike CR, however, Ceylon Silk replaces those deep gourmand woody hues with a gorgeously airy and smooth butteriness throughout its olfactory journey.
Testing on the skin, its initial sharp green piney top notes after distillation have almost completely disappeared, with the oil now a lot more smooth and rounded from start to finish.
It opens up with a beautifully rich butteriness that's delicate and airy, and yet so very buttery at the same time. To me, it's quite reminiscent of Mysore's famed sandalwoods, minus the lime opening that typify oils from that region.
As the scent progresses, you might also pick up on a hint of powdery nuttiness or earthiness, especially in the later stages. This powdery earthiness is not the soily facet found in vetiver, but a much more light and airy note that reminds me of Mitti attar's delicate nuttiness.
Overall, this is a fantastic sandalwood oil that I'd very highly recommend if you're looking for a light, clean, and yet beautifully rich and buttery sandalwood oil to wear neat. I think it would also work fantastically well in almost any attar or perfume blend, providing an incredibly smooth base without overwhelming the rest of the composition.
Bourbon Vetiver
This is an exceptionally beautiful Bourbon Vetiver essential oil from Reunion Islands that is rich and complex and yet ultra suave and smooth, making it gorgeous worn as an attar or as an ingredient in the natural perfumer's arsenal.
Testing on my skin, the aroma immediately oozes with the soft warmth of baked earth, clay, roots and dry soil with a touch of woods, petrichor and campfire smoke. I also detect a beautiful undercurrent of warm sweetness throughout, calling to mind labdanum, tolu balsam, sandalwood, and a variety of other resins and woods that it would pair well with.
As a heavy base note, it displays typical soft projection with incredible tenacity, lasting for many days on a paper strip. It also makes for a great study in comparison with Ruh Khus, the wild North Indian variety, which is a much more green, grassy and wet soily affair.
Overall, this is a truly beautiful vetiver oil and one that I'd definitely recommend for vetiver connoisseurs and natural perfume enthusiasts alike.
Ruh Khus 2020
This is a beautiful example of India's famed Ruh Khus, the essential oil distilled from the roots of wild vetiver plants (Vetiveria zizanioides) in northern India.
Distilled in 2020, it now has a beautifully soft and rounded profile with almost no harsh notes, displaying a soft and yet ultra-dense character instead (much like oud and sandalwood, vetiver improves with age, the scent becoming deeper and more rounded).
Testing on my skin, it opens up with a quiet, complex and yet very smooth leathery and rooty profile - a touch more than others I've encountered - before slowly revealing its classic Ruh Khus profile: an incredibly rich bouquet of green grass along with leafy, earthy, rooty, leathery and woody notes that lasts for many hours.
Gorgeous worn neat as a standalone attar, its excellent tenacity and fixative properties also make it an exceptional base note and ingredient in natural perfumery, working well in fougères, chypres and mossy, woody and green accords amongst others.
Note:
• As with all natural materials, the scent, colour, and profile can vary slightly from batch to batch. Please note reviews include those from previous batches
Collection:Â Kannauj Chronicles
In the Kannauj Chronicles, I explore and share with you the wonderful natural oils and attars of India’s historic perfume capital, Kannauj. The oils in this collection are pure botanical extracts and attars distilled in sandalwood oil by some of Kannauj's most renowned and trusted artisans, who share our passion for distilling the highest quality of aromatics and attars.
These attars are distilled using the ancient ‘deg and bhapka’ apparatus; a traditional distilling method largely unchanged for 400 years. I hope you enjoy these breathtaking scents of nature from a bygone era, an era fast being forgotten in today's race towards modernity and industrialisation at all costs.
Santal Ceylon Red
Distilled from wild santal roots in 2021, Santal Ceylon Red is a gorgeous Sri Lankan sandalwood oil oozing with notes of gourmand red woodiness throughout.
Unlike many other Sri Lankan santals which open with sharp piney-camphoric top notes - which I also adore - this oil is all about deeply rich base woods from the get-go.
Opening with freshly sawn woods alongside perhaps a slightly lactonic touch, it soon begins to transform into a sweet honeyed profile that reminds me of powdered almonds and tonka bean’s coumarinic marzipan-like goodness.
This golden-hued coumarin-like sweetness balances out a base of freshly sawn, almost dark red woods throughout the oil's journey, with some creaminess, and perhaps even a slightly musky animalic warmth deep down in its layers adding to its beautiful complexity and depth.
Overall, with its rich woody character and gorgeous sweetness, this makes for an exceptional sandalwood oil to wear neat. I also think it would work fantastically in blends and macerations, especially where musk or civet is used or where a strong woody character is desired.
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